Since Dec 24, 2018

Stats

Threads: 2
Replies: 63

Sep 21, 2020

It is not necessary to install the original cadence ring

Sep 19, 2020

I used these tools.
I couldn't use one though because it hit the shaft.
Am I missing a tool to remove the outside of the bottom bracket?(According to Chris' video in this thread, the SHIMANO TL-FC38)

Sep 14, 2020

Error 30H is a communication error between components.
Why don't you check the connection to the torque sensor and motor?
You may have a loose connector connection or a broken PIN inside.
Hisaaki replied to "Happy Gamers Day!"
Be careful not to open up the throttle too much;)

Sep 13, 2020

This is a great comparison video by the Nireeka owner Nicholas Raftopoulos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zW2ddSJo4_4&t=18s

Sep 8, 2020

Hisaaki replied to "Questions"
Thanks for the reply, Chris.
I'm waiting for your email about the NSD completion!
Hisaaki replied to "Questions"
If I want a 4G version of NSD when the NSD is completed, what procedures do I need to follow if I want a 4G version of NSD?
Oh my God. As I recall, when the torque sensor was announced, I only remember being informed that it was not compatible with the 1000w motor.
The standard battery in the 500w motor was a 36v battery battery battery, which means it won't work if you haven't upgraded the battery.
Did Nireeka send parts for a 48v battery to a customer who only had a 36v battery?
I don't think that's the right response.

Sep 4, 2020

If it works well, I'd love for you to share your pin assignment information with us!
I think the voltage is coming when the display is showing, so I wonder if it's a lack of contact with the battery bracket terminals or the battery itself?
This is a great improvement!
A new section "Support" added to the Customer Panel. From this section you can create a ticket and get support from the Nireeka team directly; fast, easy, and clean. Soon you will have everything related to your bike in one single system.

Sep 3, 2020

Ignition Key is dead.
All you need to do to turn it on is to press the power on button on the control panel.
The radar function is clearly listed in the NSD's feature list, so I assume that the wiring to connect to the radar from the NSD itself will be included.
I don't think the torque sensor has anything to do with controlling the radar.

Aug 29, 2020

I was able to register with no problems!
You'll need to have proof of importation when you register, but the document that came with the nireeka was fine.
I registered at a home improvement store, not a specialty bike shop.

Aug 25, 2020

Chris, thank you!
By the way, I'm sure there will be an error in the speedometer, but I'm not sure I'll be able to hold out until the NSD is ready.
I don't see a 27.5" setting for the display wheel size, what should I set the value to?
Looks like I tightened the 8Nm bearing on the left side too hard.
Our torque wrench was not able to tighten the 8Nm bearing too small.
Sorry for the disturbance.
If you connect it straight out of the factory, you'll be like Wada.
Orientation of the controller's connector at the factory
Orientation of the connector on the bottom bracket side
This is what happens when you return the controller connector to its original state
I built it in and it's hard to remove it.
Adjusted the position of the connector.
Do you adjust it by tightening the left side bearing?
I'll give it a try.
There was also another problem.
When I tightened the bottom bracket to the default torque, the crank would not turn.
If you loosen it 1mm to 1.5mm as shown in the picture, the crank will turn and the size will be slightly different.
I think I need a spacer...

postscript
It was an over-tightening of the inner left side!
The color of the connectors on the wiring is correct, but the red and white connectors on the bracket side are assembled incorrectly on both sides.
When shipped from the factory, the orientation of the connector on the controller side is mismatched.
The orientation of the bracket and connector are not aligned with the connector on the controller side.
There is not enough room for the connector on the bracket side, so it is necessary to change the direction of the connector on the controller side.
I think this is probably a faulty bracket assembly.

Aug 24, 2020

Hisaaki replied to "Forums Features"
I would like to have the ability to sort Forum articles. Because now you have to press the Next button to see the new articles.
Mine had the connector reversed, too.
I reconnected that connector to the correct position, as the left and right connections are one touch off.

Aug 23, 2020

Thanks for the tip, Chris!
All we need to do is put the two battery connection parts back in and we're done!
I haven't done a test run as I'm missing some special tools, but the display does show and the motor seems to be driven by the included throttle.
The rear radar wiring doesn't lead anywhere, so I'll just stick it in the appropriate hole.
I forgot to post what I did with the existing wiring.
I disconnected the USB-like wiring.
I'm not sure which one is USB and which one is ING.
All that's left to do is connect the sensor, controller and display and push them into the gap.
The gap is just barely there, but I managed to get the wires out.
For now, wire the display and throttle wires from the center of the battery mounting area.
The new throttle interferes with the gear change lever and the texture is poor.
Both the new throttle and the old throttle have a 3-pin connection, so maybe it can be connected if I can manage the connector, but I don't know the pin assignments.
With this type of throttle, the sensor part is separate from the grip, so you can no longer use your existing grip.
Remove the throttle as well, but there is a slight problem.
Remove the display and its control panel.
I turned the unit over to remove the existing wiring.
I wrapped it up with the appropriate sponge tape.
If I put this box in as it is, it's going to make noise.
The wiring is going to largely ignore the existing wiring.
The following features seem to be the ones that will no longer be available for existing features.
USB charging
ignition key
There's what looks like a headlight terminal, but there's no instruction manual, so it's unknown.
This side was tightened at 40 nm.

Aug 22, 2020

I managed to get the bottom bracket on.
I didn't have the tool to tighten the bottom bracket on the other side, so I'll get back to that later.
Iron filings need to be cleaned up or there will be problems later.
It took a long time, but I managed to get the hole open.
I wonder if I can get away with it if I start with a thin drill and make it thicker.
Don't forget to mask the holes before you make them.
I forgot the masking and got scratched...