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I received the Torque Sensor Package today, but it did not come with any installation instructions.
Do you have any instructions or videos to help me with the installation process?

What I found when I actually did the work.
- Important: You need a 48V battery & 500w Moter.
  It doesn't seem to work with a 36V battery or 1000w Moter.

- You need some special tools.

- If you have the first frame, you will need to drill holes in the frame.

- The USB charger and IGN switch will not work.(There's a USB charger that plugs into the display, so maybe you can use it there?)

- Existing throttle will need to be replaced as well (maybe wiring will help?).

- The red and black wiring connectors from the controller may be shipped reversed, so the connectors must be removed with a single touch and the left and right sides must be replaced. (Match the connector on the bottom bracket to the color.)

- As there is no 27.5-inch setting in the display settings, it is necessary to set the display to 27 inches. (Perhaps the speed will be slightly off.)

Dammit. Still leaves a 1mm gap between the bottom bracket frame and the RHS lockring. Maybe spacers are needed on both sides... I dunno.  Buy a motorbike

Not a Nireeka owner

Australia

Amended to last post.
Just tried what I posted and found that it worked best by backing off the LHS bearing adjustment completely (not the lockring), then placing the LHS pedal on (not bolted) and tightening RHS 44mm 16 notch lockring until pedal crank resisted gravity, and then just loosening the lock ring enough so pedal would fall to lowest point. Then adjusted the LHS inner bearing adjustment to just before gravity stopped working on the pedal/crankarm.

Hi Dean, I'm doing the torque sensor install on a gen 1 homie. The lack of instructions and misinformation from nireeka can easily result in the torque sensor being damaged. Crucial details I've found are:
- You can't properly torque the 44mm 16 notch lock rings cos the square tapered shafts obstruct the use of a socket drive
- The bottom bracket frame width is 67.8mm and the supplied torque sensor is 68mm, so the bearing will be clamped immobile before any real torque is applied anyway
- You must not adjust the left hand side 44mm 16 notch lock ring after you've installed the torque sensor. The torque sensor has bumps that locate into grooves on the LHS lock ring. If you turn the lock ring the torque sensor must rotate with it, and results in the cable wrapping around the sensor. The wire can break or the insulation can be stripped as it's being pulled through the hole you drilled.
I reckon the remedy is a 2mm thick washer, with a 35mm centre hole, for the LHS. Then the LHS can be torqued tightened correctly ( the special socket adaptor tool will work ). And then install the torque sensor and tighten the RHS to a point that the bearing isn't being clamped so the shaft still spins.

Good lord, here's another thing: Now that I have the 48-volt  battery and controller, I realize that my motor says "36v" on it! Is it likely to burn out with this situation? I have to wonder why Nireeka even sold me a 48-volt torque sensor package to begin with...

Hi Dean, all the Bafang motors are compatible with the 36/48v controllers.

Nireeka Collector

Nireeka Homie 

United States

Hisaaki or Chris, I finally got the 48-volt battery from Nireeka and connected it with the 48-volt controller, the torque-sensor and the display. The motor runs fine with with the manual throttle, but I get no response from the crank, either cadence  or torque. Cadence did work with the 36-volt battery and controller, though not torque. Now, I'm thinking with all the connecting and reconnecting i may have damaged the T.S. cable. I had the "short cable" issue as someone else did, I wonder if that's due to the cable winding around the BB before I tightened it? Also, the T.S. cable where it exits from the controller seems loose inside the encapsulant. I think there's no way to check that it's securely connected inside, as the computer is entirely potted with silicone. What do you suggest? I'll probably disassemble the BB again to check that the cable is not wound up, but is there a way to check the T.S. for proper operation before installing the BB in the frame?

Frist, I received my prime 3 or  4 months ago and  unbox it last week (why not earlier? life  got in the way). I chose the basic display for  my prime but came in metric not stander measurement. Do I have to upgrade to a new display?

Herman,
You can change the units to Imperial in the settings, it's explained on page 09 of the user's manual: https://nireeka.com/um/BF-CM-DP-C01-EN.pdf

Canada

Nireeka Prime 

attempt to insert inline the photo after more compression

please see page 4, sorry for the chaotic post, I have attached 4 pictures there.
thank you!

Switzerland

Please send a few close-up pictures from the BB sensor.

I would say it is probably not worth doing it yourself, all of the tools needed to do it yourself ends up being expensive and taking a lot of time, might be better off taking it to your local bike shop instead. Most of the tools you have to buy to do it you will only end up using once and it is probably cheaper just to get a bike shop to do it

That being said. I am doing it myself aha

It's 10000% worth doing it yourself if all you're concerned with is cost. Bike shop wanted a couple hundred dollars for installation and they didn't really want to touch it either since they've never seen the bike before. I could get all the parts from Amazon for less than $50 and it's about a day of your own labor if you're a bike noob like me. 

The parts will absolutely be used again, especially if you want to change your chain ring or do any additional upgrades/maintenance on your bike for as long as you own it.

Thank you all for the clear instruction and Photos.

It helped me to indentify i was missing some parts before i started to dissasemble my bike.
 
Yesterday i finally installed my Torque sensor. 
I love the way i does ride now (only a pitty it is limitted to 25km/h)

i took the upportunity to add some extra wires to the 5V connector for my headlite besides the charger.

Regards, Mike

Michael, with the Torque Sensor and the 500W motor, speed is limited to 25km/h?? Or is there a solution for that?

Belgium

Netherlands

HELP!

I just received a replacement motor/wheel assembly and the new torque sensor from Nireeka. Unfortunately, no manuals or instructions came with the package. I did find a fairly detailed explanation with photos and videos on how to install the torque sensor in the Nireeka website.

I need to order the bike specialized  tools ASAP. My questions is what specialized bike  tools do I need? 
So far I have:
1) Park Tool Shimano/ISIS Bottom Bracket Tool (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A0AIAG/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A36CSOLF9Y1DF1)
2) Bike Crank Extractor and Bottom Bracket Remover (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F5DN2DM/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1ARPV6SCDPLXB)

Are all bottom bracket and crank extractors removers the same? If not, which ones are the ones that I need for the Nireeka Hommie?

Anything else needed to remove/install the motor wheel assembly?
Thanks!

I used these tools.
I couldn't use one though because it hit the shaft.
Am I missing a tool to remove the outside of the bottom bracket?(According to Chris' video in this thread, the SHIMANO TL-FC38)

Japan

Chris, you said a video would be Posted about the wiring. Where is it?  I don't know where to look.

2 extra displays I can't use without longer cable and,/or connectors don't match controller's connectors.

Please open a ticket and upload all the pictures there.

The original display. I have 2 others but the cables and connectors don't match.

No image is attached here. Please try again and make sure the images are smaller than 2MB. Thank you

Attached should be a pic of the original controller and the 2nd. 
Can only attach one pic at a time.

Your controller seems to have different connectors than my two which are identical except for some printing. Of course there's no model numbers. My display has a large black 7 pin connector that is supposed to go into the frame. The controller doesn't have an output connector for it.

Please upload some pictures of your controller and display.

Hisaaki, I haven't started the bottom bracket install. I replaced the 36V battery with my 48V and at least the display works. I just want to ride it but the motor doesn't run with the error. 
BTW, how do I reset the battery after it's been dormant?   Where can I find the video on TS installation?  It's not easy to find technical info with Nireeka.

Maybe 30H means the BB is not connected electrically.

Error 30H means communication error and it means the controller couldn't find the motor. We have different versions of displays and controllers so it should be clear for us what models you have currently. You can open a ticket on your customer panel or upload pictures here.

The pic didn't Post with my comments above

Chris, Hisaki, Dean, etc.  I just bought a 2nd Homie. He couldn't get the display to work so Nireeka has sent him 2 more displays. He was using 36V battery. I put my 48V battery in and display works. What is 'error 30H?

FYI, I found that my 30H error is what shows up when the ignition key is off. It may mean there's a communication error for other displays, controllers, equipment but for me the ignition does it.

Error 30H is a communication error between components.
Why don't you check the connection to the torque sensor and motor?
You may have a loose connector connection or a broken PIN inside.

Once I get my Torque Sensor installation working with the new throttle, I'm going to try wiring the original twist-grip throttle into the cable. It reads very similar with a multimeter, and I'm thinking it just might work OK.

If it works well, I'd love for you to share your pin assignment information with us!

OK, I got the T.S. package installed, connected and powered up, but the display shows 0% battery and all battery data is blank. I also get no power to the motor. My battery meter shows three LEDs, so it's charged. I do get a blue LED on the USB port as well. All error codes are blank as well. What could be the problem? Would a bad ECU cause blank battery data? I will try a full charge to see if that makes a difference.

I think the voltage is coming when the display is showing, so I wonder if it's a lack of contact with the battery bracket terminals or the battery itself?

Do you have a 48V battery installed on your bike?

Chris, no, I have the 36V battery. You're probably going to tell me that the T.S. can only work with the 48V battery, to which I will reply that you need to send me one then.  It was not disclosed to me when I ordered the T.S. that the battery I had would not work with it.

Oh my God. As I recall, when the torque sensor was announced, I only remember being informed that it was not compatible with the 1000w motor.
The standard battery in the 500w motor was a 36v battery battery battery, which means it won't work if you haven't upgraded the battery.
Did Nireeka send parts for a 48v battery to a customer who only had a 36v battery?
I don't think that's the right response.

As you surmise, Hisaaki. I hope to be able to swap it by paying just the difference.

I heard back from Jack, and they are out of 48V batteries, but they are expecting a bike to be returned and will send me the one from that. Better than nothing.

So, the original keyed ignition switch is no longer used, is that right? Just the button on the battery?

Ignition Key is dead.
All you need to do to turn it on is to press the power on button on the control panel.

I believe the left side threaded bearing race should be screwed into the (already-torqued) main BB nut until JUST SNUG (leaving the crank to turn freely), then the outer ring torqued to spec to hold it.

The torque-sensor controller has no connection for the side-radar sensors, so I assume they will not be supported going forward, even when the NSD comes out. Should I remove them from the frame?

The radar function is clearly listed in the NSD's feature list, so I assume that the wiring to connect to the radar from the NSD itself will be included.
I don't think the torque sensor has anything to do with controlling the radar.

Hi Chris / Nireeka,

I also have a question regarding this thread.
When we get the NSD and that one I assume comes with a new controller, then will anything else change? (I mean drilling some other hole or changing something that was already now been changed with the Torque sensor installation?)
I'm just thinking not to do the same work two times or have some leftovers.

For installing the NSD, you only need to remove the display from the handlebar and install the NSD instead and connect it to the same connector outside on the frame.

so no change in the controller again (keep using the one that came with the Torque sensor). Good to know. Thanks.

I don't see a 27.5" setting for the display wheel size, what should I set the value to?

Is that the correct display for TS?  I have that one and 2 more. 
Everything has different connectors so extra work and finding connectors 😒

Chris, thank you!
By the way, I'm sure there will be an error in the speedometer, but I'm not sure I'll be able to hold out until the NSD is ready.

There was also another problem.
When I tightened the bottom bracket to the default torque, the crank would not turn.
If you loosen it 1mm to 1.5mm as shown in the picture, the crank will turn and the size will be slightly different.
I think I need a spacer...

postscript
It was an over-tightening of the inner left side!

yeah, done that already and saw the video @ my bike place here. Looked together with my mechanic.

Have you checked this video and tightened the nuts with the correct torque? The right one might be over-tightened. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUh-C6rJ0ds

Can you please upload a video in Google Drive or Dropbox and show us what you mean by "not being smooth"?

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/mihai-tanasescu">@mihai-tanasescu</a> as you can see above, Hisaki had almost the same issue and it's been solved by adjusting the left and right nuts properly.

Let me know if the link works and if I have to change angle or film something else also:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G8buzT1HkAgkmfWv452-Ml-UJCO4doe4/view?usp=drivesdk

It seems it does not spin fully "straight" all the time also.

P.S. Changed also the rear axle part and that I am very happy with! No more frame touching the disk. Thanks for having helped me with that one some time ago.

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/chris-bailey"><a href="/forum/profiles/username/chris-bailey"><a href="/forum/profiles/username/chris-bailey">@chris-bailey</a></a></a> if you look at the video you see the chain wheel also spins a bit crooked and not straight (goes a bit up-down and left-right 1+ cm):
See here though with the ipad camera it is not that good:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BNC776r7W-SjVbv-BWDdHJeT_TOhL3_0/view?usp=drivesdk
I have tightened all the parts with at the proper torque (8nmm, 40nm, 35nm respectively for each round thingie).
Not sure what to try now or what to look at and feel a bit stuck.

Edit2:
left loose some of the parts and now it somehow works.
putting everything at the indicated values 8 nm, 35nm, 40nm and looking at how the chain disc spins will show:
a) the pedals / crank is not easily turning..it is under a constant break as in the video
b) measuring the distance between the chainring disc and the frame shows that the disc is spinning with a deviation up-down of 1-1.5 cm and left-right a bit smaller.
Seems not to have a true circular rotation which given that all round screwable components are into position and centered might indicate that either the bottom crank or the frame are not fully straight but might have a little bend.

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/chris-bailey">@chris-bailey</a>: any advice?
I hope I'm not hitting a problem like I had with the rear axle as this is worrying me a bit now and I'm out of ideas, so is my mechanic as we both were looking at this.

Your chainring or spider might be bent but it's probably the chainring. You need to have it checked.

Regarding the BB, you need to play with the inner nuts to make sure the BB is installed in the middle properly.

I'll check them out with my mechanic again. He was under the impression after a quick look that it might be again something with the frame that he could adjust but that would not make for a nice workaround on the carbon fiber side of things.
Let me double check and I will get back to you. 
The BB is installed in the middle, this we checked over and over again but without loosening a bit some of the rings and just obeying the tension values it is a no-go in the current setup. Not sure what component is not as per design this time but it seems to point in this direction.

Hi mihai.
I saw your latest post. I see you posted it over here.
Are you sure you are not tightening the inner bearing too hard?
If you tighten it according to the torque, it might not work.

Hi Hisaaki,

So you also did not respect the Nm specs if I get it right, no?

p. s. looking at the crank with the sensor and at the frame what we (my mechanic and I) see is that the surface where the crank connects is not straight but rather a bit crooked (not sure if this is normal/usual but I see at other bikes here that this is not usually the case; he dismantled a few so that we could compare)
in your case the chainring spins equally or also goes a bit left-right / up-down?

in 30 min will dismantle again and compare.
with the bearings not tightened to Torque but still well in place it works (except for that deviated movement that seems to be more leaning on the frame side of things ; will change the chainring to compare and the spider for another test)

Mhm sorry to stress you but I'm more newbie here:)
Wanted to ask which of the parts you tightened to the torque and which not (there was the round one with 35Nm, the one with 40Nm and the one with 8 Nm if I did not miss any other).

Thanks for having checked.
Will look if it is at an angle. My bike mechanic put the crank and he showed me upon installation that it is well calibrated as he wanted to be sure we do not dismantle and reassemble over and over again. We will dismantle it again though for 100% safety.

We looked at it from the front and also used a measuring meter (like a ruler)  to set it straight between frame and chain ring and saw how it was varying in height and width.

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/hisaaki-kobayashi">@hisaaki-kobayashi</a>  dumb question..did you manage easily to connect the Torque sensor cable?
it is a bit short and I am struggling to reach it with the controller cable (it is on the bottom part of the compartment where my hand barely can enter and I do not see anything when doing this...it's male intuition at its best)

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/mihai-tanasescu">@mihai-tanasescu</a> 
I don't remember having any trouble with the length of the cable.
My frame is an early frame, and it may be because I drilled the holes at the shortest distance.

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/hisaaki-kobayashi">@hisaaki-kobayashi</a>
my frame is also gen1 (ignition key one) but the torque sensor has a very short cable.
I put it through the hole and then frame inside but to connect it with the controller (also very short cable) I am with my hand inside the frame and cannot see what I try to connect. 
Was your cable longer?
Even with a higher hole more than 1 cm I cannot gain and useful would be 5 :)

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/mihai-tanasescu">@mihai-tanasescu</a> 
The attached photo is with the cable connected, but I think there was quite a bit of room.
It's the same frame so I don't think it makes a difference...
Is the torque sensor cable wrapped around the sensor during installation, resulting in a shorter cable?

Mhmm maybe it is given how it shows in your photo. Will see.
Managed to connect everything but then Murphy.. battery 0 charged.. in a few minutes I test and maybe also dismantle to have a longer cable for the future. 
Thank you!

p. s. on the positive side I managed to connect the usb port :) used very long tweezers and a lot of patience and a screwdriver to push the plugs into place :)

So the story ends well :)
Torque sensor functions, the cable is shorter than in the case of Hisaaki, I checked this but anyway with long tweezers and some skill and patience I connected the conector even if I did not see a thing and it works.
The chainring spinning is not really an issue and I misunderstood. That was a friend of my mechanic that said it and measured but my mechanic showed me that there are chainrings and chainrings and even showed me a few models that are a bit uneven => case closed.

Last but not least..did anyone find a good way (nice and not just putting silicone or doing some dirty stuff) to fill in the hole with the motor cable that sits underneath the bike?
I'm afraid that I will just get dirt coming inside the frame through there when riding it in a forest or muddy ground.

I'm glad you got it all sorted out!
The short cable is a mystery, but it's common for Nireeka to have different parts at different times, so maybe that's how it works.

I think I saw someone on facebook who modified a rubber grommet to attach the hole at the bottom.
I was going to use a 3D printer to make a nice cover, but I totally forgot about it until now.
I'll try to create one soon.

Enjoy your Nireeka life, Mihai:)

Me too !! I finally have a fully functional bike and can enjoy it !
I also like how it works with the torque sensor...much much different than before with the cadence one + I have no more workaround for the frame touching the rotor now with the new back part replaced.
First time I have nothing to complain :)
Mhm I don't have a 3d printer but have a friend with one so ..mhm..may I ask to also send the design for that piece to me once you have something if possible and not too much to ask for?

Thanks.

The parts that need to be tightened should follow the torque regulations, but the parts that need to be fine-tuned should be done by feel.

I checked on the actual vehicle, and the chainring is not turning at an angle or warping irregularly.
Perhaps the BB is installed at an angle on your bike, or the threaded groove on the BB is installed incorrectly.

However, the shape of the frame makes it look as if it is somewhat slanted.
If you look at the chainring from the front and don't see it swinging, you should be fine.

or after mounting but the pedals still move like something is holding them back and not fluent

Hi Hisaaki,
Hi Chris,

I managed to mount it but when testing with a pedal (before mounting the chain disk and the silver round thingie) it does not turn very easily, more like friction.
Am I doing something wrong or where should I look at the issue?
I also attached a picture.

Sorry for the trouble.

You're definitely doing something wrong. Please upload a picture of your installation here before installing the chainring.

Hi Chris, seems from my ipad the pic did not get uploaded. Figured out why..apple has it in HEIC format, probably the forum does not like that. I converted to jpeg, retrying.
Thanks for stepping in to help. I am really puzzled as to where I might be failing.

Nope: upload just drags on forever with both Chrome and Firefox with both image jpeg format original size 5 Mb and more compressed at 800 KB.
I uploaded a picture here:
https://ibb.co/zbTvwgH
Can you please let me know if visible and also what I might be doing wrong or if I forgot some component?

Thank you Chris!

Do you adjust it by tightening the left side bearing?
I'll give it a try.

No Hisaaki, you obviously assembled incorrectly. On the picture, you pulled the Torque sensor too far to the left and that's why you cannot tighten the left side completely. Please pay attention to the installation video and try again. Both sides should be tighten equally it means the Torque sensor should be in dead center when assembled.

Looks like I tightened the 8Nm bearing on the left side too hard.
Our torque wrench was not able to tighten the 8Nm bearing too small.
Sorry for the disturbance.

That's correct. It should be fixed using the left side bearing.

Ughhh, this company.  At least swtching that connector is an easy fix.  Thanks for all your input!

Orientation of the connector on the bottom bracket side

This is what happens when you return the controller connector to its original state

I built it in and it's hard to remove it.
Adjusted the position of the connector.

Would you please attach a picture of the connector on the bracket.

<a href="/forum/profiles/Wade">@Wade</a> already figured out that his connectors are OK.

The color of the connectors on the wiring is correct, but the red and white connectors on the bracket side are assembled incorrectly on both sides.
When shipped from the factory, the orientation of the connector on the controller side is mismatched.
The orientation of the bracket and connector are not aligned with the connector on the controller side.
There is not enough room for the connector on the bracket side, so it is necessary to change the direction of the connector on the controller side.
I think this is probably a faulty bracket assembly.

Something is not correct here. Would you please send us a picture of the bracket where the battery is connected?

Orientation of the controller's connector at the factory

If you connect it straight out of the factory, you'll be like Wada.

Now I understand what happened. No matter how it comes from the factory, the RED one goes into the RED one and the BLACK one goes into BLACK one. Otherwise, you will damage the controller.

So i thought I'd plug everything and then i noticed this... plug from the battery controller board has the wrong set up.

Would you please send us a picture of the bracket where the battery is connected?

Mine had the connector reversed, too.
I reconnected that connector to the correct position, as the left and right connections are one touch off.

Thanks Hisaaki. The photos are helpful.  I drilled the hole in the same place and it seemed to align with the torque bracket pretty well. My replacement rear hub motor should be here later this week and I can't wait to test it all out.

All we need to do is put the two battery connection parts back in and we're done!
I haven't done a test run as I'm missing some special tools, but the display does show and the motor seems to be driven by the included throttle.

The rear radar wiring doesn't lead anywhere, so I'll just stick it in the appropriate hole.

I forgot to post what I did with the existing wiring.
I disconnected the USB-like wiring.
I'm not sure which one is USB and which one is ING.

Hi Hisaaki / Hi Chris,

I'm a bit late with this but since the weather got bad and I was overloaded at work I never proceeded with the Torque sensor installation.
Now I found some time and the weather is slowly improving so I want to get down to work.
I have a dummie question.
The USB Charger cable needs to be cut off ? 
I saw it goes upward through the body where the battery is and that it already has 5V.
Can I not leave it connected then?
I assume Ignition is the only feature that is lost with this upgrade, no?

The White  connector is for the Ignition and the one connected to the bracket is for USB charger.

All that's left to do is connect the sensor, controller and display and push them into the gap.

The gap is just barely there, but I managed to get the wires out.

For now, wire the display and throttle wires from the center of the battery mounting area.

The new throttle interferes with the gear change lever and the texture is poor.

I put my throttle on the stem side of the brake lever and no interference.

Both the new throttle and the old throttle have a 3-pin connection, so maybe it can be connected if I can manage the connector, but I don't know the pin assignments.

With this type of throttle, the sensor part is separate from the grip, so you can no longer use your existing grip.

Remove the throttle as well, but there is a slight problem.

Remove the display and its control panel.

I turned the unit over to remove the existing wiring.

I wrapped it up with the appropriate sponge tape.

If I put this box in as it is, it's going to make noise.

The wiring is going to largely ignore the existing wiring.
The following features seem to be the ones that will no longer be available for existing features.
USB charging
ignition key
There's what looks like a headlight terminal, but there's no instruction manual, so it's unknown.

The headlight wire is permanently giving 5v for the usb charger. 
I added an extra wire for my headlight (with an on/off switch on the headlight)

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/chris-bailey">@chris-bailey</a> 
Hello Chris.
There's a wire in the picture above that says [Headlight?], but I actually measured it with a tester and it was always 5V.
Is it correct to say that this wire is for a USB connection?
If so, where do you connect the wires to the headlights that can be controlled by the display?

No problem Hisaaki.

For anyone who needs the tool:
I went to my local bikeshop and the told me to order a: Bottom Bracket Tool 44 Mm 16 Notch
 
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/4000765144102.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.24484c4dMAh7ck
I found a cheap one in above link.

Hi Michael.
I missed it all and was slow to respond. 
The blue tool ended up not being able to tighten the other side, so I bought another tool.
According to the bafang video, the [SHIMANO TL-FC38] seems to fit.

Hi Hisaaki, 
Can you please tell me the part number of the blue tool that you use to tighten the new bracket ?
Best regards,
Michael.

I managed to get the bottom bracket on.
I didn't have the tool to tighten the bottom bracket on the other side, so I'll get back to that later.

It is not necessary to install the original cadence ring

I'm installing the torque sensor BB. 
I don't see a way to install the cadence ring with the new BB. Is it not used?

Iron filings need to be cleaned up or there will be problems later.

It took a long time, but I managed to get the hole open.

I wonder if I can get away with it if I start with a thin drill and make it thicker.

Don't forget to mask the holes before you make them.
I forgot the masking and got scratched...

I used a nail set through the wiring hole. I. Used a 3/16" bit first, then a 5/16". I'm just installing the BB, cranks, etc. for their better looks. None of the connectors match so I'll wait for the electrical.

You will need to drill a hole somewhere for the torque sensor wire.
I decided to drill the back of the hole here.

There will be a mess of wires, so take them out as you see fit.
All the existing wires seem to be unnecessary; the wire that looks like the USB power supply is attached directly to the existing bracket, so I had to cut it off.
Also, the wire that comes from the ignition key is not needed as there is no connection to it.
I left it for now.

Remove the bracket by prying it off with a suitable tool (I used a tool to remove the tire).

You will need to remove the two bolts in addition to the outer bolts.

Simply turning it over will make it wobble, so use a rope to fix it in place.

Could you register 自転車防犯登録 without any problem from bike shop?

I was able to register with no problems!
You'll need to have proof of importation when you register, but the document that came with the nireeka was fine.
I registered at a home improvement store, not a specialty bike shop.

Once the bottom bracket is out, turn the bike over.

With this tool(crank remover), I was able to remove the crank arm. Remove both sides.

The crank arm couldn't be removed by shaking it or hitting it with a rubber hammer, so I went to buy a special tool.

Now that the crank bolts have been removed, remove the gears and chain.

This is a record for those who will later install the torque sensor package.
The person doing the work is not a professional in bicycle maintenance.

First, I'm trying to remove the crank.

Thanks for the reply Chris!
The video doesn't show anything around the wiring or anything, but I'll give it a shot anyway.

I'm already running into the problem of the crank not coming off :(

The picture shows the contents of the package.

Chris, was the video about the wiring ever Posted?

You need a special tool called puller for removing the crankarms. This video explains very well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64m1mmPFxcc

Hisaaki, please check this tutorial video and let us know if you have any questions: https://youtu.be/UUh-C6rJ0ds

You also need to make a hole in your bottom bracket shell as shown in the video since you have a first-gen frame.

It would be appreciated if you share some pictures of the package here.

How do I install the Torque Sensor Package?

I received the Torque Sensor Package today, but it did not come with any installation instructions.
Do you have any instructions or videos to help me with the installation process?

What I found when I actually did the work.
- Important: You need a 48V battery & 500w Moter.
  It ...

Post the pictures of your Nireeka ebike here.

Love the bike, wife can't wait for hers to arrive

Nireeka Ebike Gallery

Here is a quick demonstration of the final version of the NSD.

https://youtu.be/jLAH-ll7aBs

Specs:
We're using a touchscreen 6.53 inches smartphone-type display with 720x1600 pixels resolution on the NSD.

Features:
All the promised features are included.

Installation:
The NSD will be replaced with your current Nireeka display. It's plug&amp;play.

Connectivity: ...

So is this just an app for your phone that you can connect via bluetooth to a receiver that plugs in to the current display plug?

Nireeka Revenant IGG Earlybird

So I'm biking home tonight... and this thing shows up out of nowhere.   I now know that I can forcefully bunny-hop the Nireeka Homie in a pinch.   Emergency hopping a combined ~114kg (250lbs) was not fun, but I am not dead, and the bike took it like champ.   Almost 1000km ...

ObstacleWeb.jpg

Chassis Robustness & Emergencies

You can use any light that has the red and Blue site connectors , i just bought A bafang motors light cable adapter (the Blue socket to red and black cable) it works fine!

ByHisaaki kobayashi

ByYounes Shojaie

ByMax Shojaie