I received the Torque Sensor Package today, but it did not come with any installation instructions.
Do you have any instructions or videos to help me with the installation process?

What I found when I actually did the work.
- Important: You need a 48V battery & 500w Moter.
  It ...

Installation Guides

Dammit. Still leaves a 1mm gap between the bottom bracket frame and the RHS lockring. Maybe spacers are needed on both sides... I dunno.  Buy a motorbike

Not a Nireeka owner

Australia

How do I install the Torque Sensor Package?

Post the pictures of your Nireeka ebike here.

Photo Gallery

This bike is a total piece of AWESOME! I absolutely never can get enough of riding it everywhere...

Nireeka Prime 

United States

Nireeka Ebike Gallery

Here is a quick demonstration of the final version of the NSD.

https://youtu.be/jLAH-ll7aBs

Specs:
We're using a touchscreen 6.53 inches smartphone-type display with 720x1600 pixels resolution on the NSD.

Features:
All the promised features are included.

Installation:
The NSD will be replaced with your current Nireeka display. It's plug&amp;play.

Connectivity: ...

NSD (Nireeka Smart Display)

So is this just an app for your phone that you can connect via bluetooth to a receiver that plugs in to the current display plug?

Nireeka Revenant IGG Earlybird

So I'm biking home tonight... and this thing shows up out of nowhere.   I now know that I can forcefully bunny-hop the Nireeka Homie in a pinch.   Emergency hopping a combined ~114kg (250lbs) was not fun, but I am not dead, and the bike took it like champ.   Almost 1000km ...

General Discussions

ObstacleWeb.jpg

Chassis Robustness & Emergencies

Prime

If you have a Bosch e-bike light kit, keep in mind that turning on the headlight also turns on the backlight at the same time. It uses a single switch to control both lights. 1. Locate the (+) button on one of the handlebars, next to the tiny LCD monitor. 2. To turn on the light, press and hold the (+) button for no more than three seconds.

Headlights?

I've been waiting for NSD for years now, and it looks like it's finally going to happen!
However, the physical buttons on the controls are too tacky and I would like to see them made cooler with the max design.

Nireeka Homie 

Japan

Hi Chris.
Thank you for replay.
While I'm on the fence about it, Japan has put restrictions on travel from overseas again, so I'll have to wait and see what happens before I consider it again!

By the way, how do I order the red NYX battery on the top screen and the red inside of the rear frame?

If I order NYX now, how long will the delivery time be?
By the way, this is for an order from Japan.
Also, will NSD be available for NYX?

Hisaaki,
We have the Nyx in stock. If you order one, it ships in a week and takes 30-40 days to get there.
The NSD would work on all the Nireeka bikes.

Nireeka Collector

Canada

I'm glad you got it all sorted out!
The short cable is a mystery, but it's common for Nireeka to have different parts at different times, so maybe that's how it works.

I think I saw someone on facebook who modified a rubber grommet to attach the hole at the bottom.
I was going to use a 3D printer to make a nice cover, but I totally forgot about it until now.
I'll try to create one soon.

Enjoy your Nireeka life, Mihai:)

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/mihai-tanasescu">@mihai-tanasescu</a> 
The attached photo is with the cable connected, but I think there was quite a bit of room.
It's the same frame so I don't think it makes a difference...
Is the torque sensor cable wrapped around the sensor during installation, resulting in a shorter cable?

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/mihai-tanasescu">@mihai-tanasescu</a> 
I don't remember having any trouble with the length of the cable.
My frame is an early frame, and it may be because I drilled the holes at the shortest distance.

The parts that need to be tightened should follow the torque regulations, but the parts that need to be fine-tuned should be done by feel.

I checked on the actual vehicle, and the chainring is not turning at an angle or warping irregularly.
Perhaps the BB is installed at an angle on your bike, or the threaded groove on the BB is installed incorrectly.

However, the shape of the frame makes it look as if it is somewhat slanted.
If you look at the chainring from the front and don't see it swinging, you should be fine.

Hi mihai.
I saw your latest post. I see you posted it over here.
Are you sure you are not tightening the inner bearing too hard?
If you tighten it according to the torque, it might not work.

I think they're doing something on Instagram, because they're running some NYX ad videos.

Thank you.
I basically only ride it around town, so I changed the tires for that.
They offer less resistance and allow you to go with less effort.
The model of the tire is the PIRELLI Cycl-e GT.
A little expensive:-/

My Homie is Pearlized Red.
In indoor lighting, the color looks like the attached photo.

Very neat picture, <a href="/forum/profiles/username/hisaaki-kobayashi">@hisaaki-kobayashi</a>
I also like your tires.

It is almost certain that the bike will be delivered, but when it will arrive is a matter of luck.
I'm sure it's partly due to COVID-19, but I think it's also their nature.
Let's wait patiently.

Yes, i agree, your bike will be coming in the next few months. As well as problems with Covid, i am aware that Nireeka were waiting for 2 main items. 1. New batteries, but more importantly 2. The  Nireeka Smart Display, which they have been working.on for over a year. And the other day I found an article by one of the owners, saying that after all the delays, the display was almost finished and ready to be sent with bikes. 

I think that you'll find that this is the main reason for delays

.

United Kingdom

Perhaps, but I think it would be a solution if NSD could.
If you can, that is.

I've replaced it with a 44T front gear, but even so, I won't be changing into a lower gear.
Maybe 46 or 48 would have been better? I think.
It is mainly for use in the urban areas of the flatlands.

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/chris-bailey">@chris-bailey</a> 
Hello Chris.
There's a wire in the picture above that says [Headlight?], but I actually measured it with a tester and it was always 5V.
Is it correct to say that this wire is for a USB connection?
If so, where do you connect the wires to the headlights that can be controlled by the display?

Looking at the photo of Nicholas on FB, it looks like the nut is not on.
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=3627313290625814&set=gm.823256845079230

I think you have to put a proper nut on it so it doesn't come loose, but the bolt is pretty long, so I don't think the axle will suddenly come off.
As I'm struggling to get it off now.

How about gluing a suitable tool to the spinning bracket, with instant glue, and turning it from the other side?

The fork in the video above looks like it has suspension, so I'm guessing it's not the same type as fredrik's Prime fork.

When I wrote it, I realized that it's already there.
Do you get a notification at the bell in the upper right corner?

I'd like to have the annotation(mention) feature because I sometimes miss replies to me.

Hi Michael.
I missed it all and was slow to respond. 
The blue tool ended up not being able to tighten the other side, so I bought another tool.
According to the bafang video, the [SHIMANO TL-FC38] seems to fit.

It is not necessary to install the original cadence ring

I used these tools.
I couldn't use one though because it hit the shaft.
Am I missing a tool to remove the outside of the bottom bracket?(According to Chris' video in this thread, the SHIMANO TL-FC38)

Error 30H is a communication error between components.
Why don't you check the connection to the torque sensor and motor?
You may have a loose connector connection or a broken PIN inside.

Be careful not to open up the throttle too much；）

Thanks for the reply, Chris.
I'm waiting for your email about the NSD completion!

If I want a 4G version of NSD when the NSD is completed, what procedures do I need to follow if I want a 4G version of NSD?

We'll send an email to all the customers if they want to get the upgraded version of the NSD when it's available to order.

Oh my God. As I recall, when the torque sensor was announced, I only remember being informed that it was not compatible with the 1000w motor.
The standard battery in the 500w motor was a 36v battery battery battery, which means it won't work if you haven't upgraded the battery.
Did Nireeka send parts for a 48v battery to a customer who only had a 36v battery?
I don't think that's the right response.

If it works well, I'd love for you to share your pin assignment information with us!

I think the voltage is coming when the display is showing, so I wonder if it's a lack of contact with the battery bracket terminals or the battery itself?

Ignition Key is dead.
All you need to do to turn it on is to press the power on button on the control panel.

The radar function is clearly listed in the NSD's feature list, so I assume that the wiring to connect to the radar from the NSD itself will be included.
I don't think the torque sensor has anything to do with controlling the radar.

I was able to register with no problems!
You'll need to have proof of importation when you register, but the document that came with the nireeka was fine.
I registered at a home improvement store, not a specialty bike shop.

Chris, thank you!
By the way, I'm sure there will be an error in the speedometer, but I'm not sure I'll be able to hold out until the NSD is ready.

I don't see a 27.5" setting for the display wheel size, what should I set the value to?

Is that the correct display for TS?  I have that one and 2 more. 
Everything has different connectors so extra work and finding connectors 😒

Looks like I tightened the 8Nm bearing on the left side too hard.
Our torque wrench was not able to tighten the 8Nm bearing too small.
Sorry for the disturbance.

If you connect it straight out of the factory, you'll be like Wada.

Orientation of the controller's connector at the factory

Orientation of the connector on the bottom bracket side

This is what happens when you return the controller connector to its original state

I built it in and it's hard to remove it.
Adjusted the position of the connector.

Do you adjust it by tightening the left side bearing?
I'll give it a try.

There was also another problem.
When I tightened the bottom bracket to the default torque, the crank would not turn.
If you loosen it 1mm to 1.5mm as shown in the picture, the crank will turn and the size will be slightly different.
I think I need a spacer...

postscript
It was an over-tightening of the inner left side!

Switzerland

Have you checked this video and tightened the nuts with the correct torque? The right one might be over-tightened. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUh-C6rJ0ds

yeah, done that already and saw the video @ my bike place here. Looked together with my mechanic.

Can you please upload a video in Google Drive or Dropbox and show us what you mean by "not being smooth"?

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/mihai-tanasescu">@mihai-tanasescu</a> as you can see above, Hisaki had almost the same issue and it's been solved by adjusting the left and right nuts properly.

Let me know if the link works and if I have to change angle or film something else also:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G8buzT1HkAgkmfWv452-Ml-UJCO4doe4/view?usp=drivesdk

It seems it does not spin fully "straight" all the time also.

P.S. Changed also the rear axle part and that I am very happy with! No more frame touching the disk. Thanks for having helped me with that one some time ago.

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/chris-bailey"><a href="/forum/profiles/username/chris-bailey"><a href="/forum/profiles/username/chris-bailey">@chris-bailey</a></a></a> if you look at the video you see the chain wheel also spins a bit crooked and not straight (goes a bit up-down and left-right 1+ cm):
See here though with the ipad camera it is not that good:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BNC776r7W-SjVbv-BWDdHJeT_TOhL3_0/view?usp=drivesdk
I have tightened all the parts with at the proper torque (8nmm, 40nm, 35nm respectively for each round thingie).
Not sure what to try now or what to look at and feel a bit stuck.

Edit2:
left loose some of the parts and now it somehow works.
putting everything at the indicated values 8 nm, 35nm, 40nm and looking at how the chain disc spins will show:
a) the pedals / crank is not easily turning..it is under a constant break as in the video
b) measuring the distance between the chainring disc and the frame shows that the disc is spinning with a deviation up-down of 1-1.5 cm and left-right a bit smaller.
Seems not to have a true circular rotation which given that all round screwable components are into position and centered might indicate that either the bottom crank or the frame are not fully straight but might have a little bend.

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/chris-bailey">@chris-bailey</a>: any advice?
I hope I'm not hitting a problem like I had with the rear axle as this is worrying me a bit now and I'm out of ideas, so is my mechanic as we both were looking at this.

Your chainring or spider might be bent but it's probably the chainring. You need to have it checked.

Regarding the BB, you need to play with the inner nuts to make sure the BB is installed in the middle properly.

I'll check them out with my mechanic again. He was under the impression after a quick look that it might be again something with the frame that he could adjust but that would not make for a nice workaround on the carbon fiber side of things.
Let me double check and I will get back to you. 
The BB is installed in the middle, this we checked over and over again but without loosening a bit some of the rings and just obeying the tension values it is a no-go in the current setup. Not sure what component is not as per design this time but it seems to point in this direction.

Me too !! I finally have a fully functional bike and can enjoy it !
I also like how it works with the torque sensor...much much different than before with the cadence one + I have no more workaround for the frame touching the rotor now with the new back part replaced.
First time I have nothing to complain :)
Mhm I don't have a 3d printer but have a friend with one so ..mhm..may I ask to also send the design for that piece to me once you have something if possible and not too much to ask for?

Thanks.

So the story ends well :)
Torque sensor functions, the cable is shorter than in the case of Hisaaki, I checked this but anyway with long tweezers and some skill and patience I connected the conector even if I did not see a thing and it works.
The chainring spinning is not really an issue and I misunderstood. That was a friend of my mechanic that said it and measured but my mechanic showed me that there are chainrings and chainrings and even showed me a few models that are a bit uneven => case closed.

Last but not least..did anyone find a good way (nice and not just putting silicone or doing some dirty stuff) to fill in the hole with the motor cable that sits underneath the bike?
I'm afraid that I will just get dirt coming inside the frame through there when riding it in a forest or muddy ground.

Mhmm maybe it is given how it shows in your photo. Will see.
Managed to connect everything but then Murphy.. battery 0 charged.. in a few minutes I test and maybe also dismantle to have a longer cable for the future. 
Thank you!

p. s. on the positive side I managed to connect the usb port :) used very long tweezers and a lot of patience and a screwdriver to push the plugs into place :)

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/hisaaki-kobayashi">@hisaaki-kobayashi</a>
my frame is also gen1 (ignition key one) but the torque sensor has a very short cable.
I put it through the hole and then frame inside but to connect it with the controller (also very short cable) I am with my hand inside the frame and cannot see what I try to connect. 
Was your cable longer?
Even with a higher hole more than 1 cm I cannot gain and useful would be 5 :)

<a href="/forum/profiles/username/hisaaki-kobayashi">@hisaaki-kobayashi</a>  dumb question..did you manage easily to connect the Torque sensor cable?
it is a bit short and I am struggling to reach it with the controller cable (it is on the bottom part of the compartment where my hand barely can enter and I do not see anything when doing this...it's male intuition at its best)

Mhm sorry to stress you but I'm more newbie here:)
Wanted to ask which of the parts you tightened to the torque and which not (there was the round one with 35Nm, the one with 40Nm and the one with 8 Nm if I did not miss any other).

Thanks for having checked.
Will look if it is at an angle. My bike mechanic put the crank and he showed me upon installation that it is well calibrated as he wanted to be sure we do not dismantle and reassemble over and over again. We will dismantle it again though for 100% safety.

We looked at it from the front and also used a measuring meter (like a ruler)  to set it straight between frame and chain ring and saw how it was varying in height and width.

Hi Hisaaki,

So you also did not respect the Nm specs if I get it right, no?

p. s. looking at the crank with the sensor and at the frame what we (my mechanic and I) see is that the surface where the crank connects is not straight but rather a bit crooked (not sure if this is normal/usual but I see at other bikes here that this is not usually the case; he dismantled a few so that we could compare)
in your case the chainring spins equally or also goes a bit left-right / up-down?

in 30 min will dismantle again and compare.
with the bearings not tightened to Torque but still well in place it works (except for that deviated movement that seems to be more leaning on the frame side of things ; will change the chainring to compare and the spider for another test)

Hi Chris, seems from my ipad the pic did not get uploaded. Figured out why..apple has it in HEIC format, probably the forum does not like that. I converted to jpeg, retrying.
Thanks for stepping in to help. I am really puzzled as to where I might be failing.

Nope: upload just drags on forever with both Chrome and Firefox with both image jpeg format original size 5 Mb and more compressed at 800 KB.
I uploaded a picture here:
https://ibb.co/zbTvwgH
Can you please let me know if visible and also what I might be doing wrong or if I forgot some component?

Thank you Chris!

You're definitely doing something wrong. Please upload a picture of your installation here before installing the chainring.

or after mounting but the pedals still move like something is holding them back and not fluent

Hi Hisaaki,
Hi Chris,

I managed to mount it but when testing with a pedal (before mounting the chain disk and the silver round thingie) it does not turn very easily, more like friction.
Am I doing something wrong or where should I look at the issue?
I also attached a picture.

Sorry for the trouble.

That's correct. It should be fixed using the left side bearing.

No Hisaaki, you obviously assembled incorrectly. On the picture, you pulled the Torque sensor too far to the left and that's why you cannot tighten the left side completely. Please pay attention to the installation video and try again. Both sides should be tighten equally it means the Torque sensor should be in dead center when assembled.

The color of the connectors on the wiring is correct, but the red and white connectors on the bracket side are assembled incorrectly on both sides.
When shipped from the factory, the orientation of the connector on the controller side is mismatched.
The orientation of the bracket and connector are not aligned with the connector on the controller side.
There is not enough room for the connector on the bracket side, so it is necessary to change the direction of the connector on the controller side.
I think this is probably a faulty bracket assembly.

I would like to have the ability to sort Forum articles. Because now you have to press the Next button to see the new articles.

Mine had the connector reversed, too.
I reconnected that connector to the correct position, as the left and right connections are one touch off.

All we need to do is put the two battery connection parts back in and we're done!
I haven't done a test run as I'm missing some special tools, but the display does show and the motor seems to be driven by the included throttle.

The rear radar wiring doesn't lead anywhere, so I'll just stick it in the appropriate hole.

I forgot to post what I did with the existing wiring.
I disconnected the USB-like wiring.
I'm not sure which one is USB and which one is ING.

Hi Hisaaki / Hi Chris,

I'm a bit late with this but since the weather got bad and I was overloaded at work I never proceeded with the Torque sensor installation.
Now I found some time and the weather is slowly improving so I want to get down to work.
I have a dummie question.
The USB Charger cable needs to be cut off ? 
I saw it goes upward through the body where the battery is and that it already has 5V.
Can I not leave it connected then?
I assume Ignition is the only feature that is lost with this upgrade, no?

The White  connector is for the Ignition and the one connected to the bracket is for USB charger.

All that's left to do is connect the sensor, controller and display and push them into the gap.

The gap is just barely there, but I managed to get the wires out.

For now, wire the display and throttle wires from the center of the battery mounting area.

The new throttle interferes with the gear change lever and the texture is poor.

I put my throttle on the stem side of the brake lever and no interference.

Both the new throttle and the old throttle have a 3-pin connection, so maybe it can be connected if I can manage the connector, but I don't know the pin assignments.

With this type of throttle, the sensor part is separate from the grip, so you can no longer use your existing grip.

Remove the throttle as well, but there is a slight problem.

Remove the display and its control panel.

I turned the unit over to remove the existing wiring.

I wrapped it up with the appropriate sponge tape.

If I put this box in as it is, it's going to make noise.

The wiring is going to largely ignore the existing wiring.
The following features seem to be the ones that will no longer be available for existing features.
USB charging
ignition key
There's what looks like a headlight terminal, but there's no instruction manual, so it's unknown.

The headlight wire is permanently giving 5v for the usb charger. 
I added an extra wire for my headlight (with an on/off switch on the headlight)

Netherlands

No problem Hisaaki.

For anyone who needs the tool:
I went to my local bikeshop and the told me to order a: Bottom Bracket Tool 44 Mm 16 Notch
 
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/4000765144102.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.24484c4dMAh7ck
I found a cheap one in above link.

Hi Hisaaki, 
Can you please tell me the part number of the blue tool that you use to tighten the new bracket ?
Best regards,
Michael.

I managed to get the bottom bracket on.
I didn't have the tool to tighten the bottom bracket on the other side, so I'll get back to that later.

I'm installing the torque sensor BB. 
I don't see a way to install the cadence ring with the new BB. Is it not used?

Iron filings need to be cleaned up or there will be problems later.

It took a long time, but I managed to get the hole open.

I wonder if I can get away with it if I start with a thin drill and make it thicker.

Don't forget to mask the holes before you make them.
I forgot the masking and got scratched...

I used a nail set through the wiring hole. I. Used a 3/16" bit first, then a 5/16". I'm just installing the BB, cranks, etc. for their better looks. None of the connectors match so I'll wait for the electrical.

You will need to drill a hole somewhere for the torque sensor wire.
I decided to drill the back of the hole here.

There will be a mess of wires, so take them out as you see fit.
All the existing wires seem to be unnecessary; the wire that looks like the USB power supply is attached directly to the existing bracket, so I had to cut it off.
Also, the wire that comes from the ignition key is not needed as there is no connection to it.
I left it for now.

Remove the bracket by prying it off with a suitable tool (I used a tool to remove the tire).

You will need to remove the two bolts in addition to the outer bolts.

Simply turning it over will make it wobble, so use a rope to fix it in place.

Could you register 自転車防犯登録 without any problem from bike shop?

Once the bottom bracket is out, turn the bike over.

With this tool(crank remover), I was able to remove the crank arm. Remove both sides.

The crank arm couldn't be removed by shaking it or hitting it with a rubber hammer, so I went to buy a special tool.

Now that the crank bolts have been removed, remove the gears and chain.

This is a record for those who will later install the torque sensor package.
The person doing the work is not a professional in bicycle maintenance.

First, I'm trying to remove the crank.

Thanks for the reply Chris!
The video doesn't show anything around the wiring or anything, but I'll give it a shot anyway.

I'm already running into the problem of the crank not coming off :(

The picture shows the contents of the package.

Chris, was the video about the wiring ever Posted?

You need a special tool called puller for removing the crankarms. This video explains very well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64m1mmPFxcc

Thanks for the reply, max.

The NSD torque sensor is software controlled, I understand.

If I have already paid for the torque sensor and did not cancel, can I assume that I will be sent the torque sensor package that was added to this package?

This is Chris, the customer service agent.

That's correct. You will get a complete torque sensor package along with your NSD if you do NOT have 1000W motor because as already explained, the torque sensor package is not compatible with 1000w motor.

There is a lot of confusion and confusing information about NSDs and torque sensors.

The questions are as follows

1. Does NSD include a torque sensor?
2. is the cost of the torque sensor you are paying for earlier in the IGG the cost of the upgraded 4G version of ...

Hello, i have a question at this topic. 

When the new 4g NSD wil be there, can the hardware torque sensor still be used together with the NSD. So they will together give the best natural experience ?

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